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PRISC1LLA 

Basketnj 



Published by 

ThePnscillaPubhshing Co 

Boston, Mass. 










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ISrtecilla JSasifeetrp Pook 

A COLLECTION OF BASKETS 
AND OTHER ARTICLES 



WITH 



He£fton£ for forking anb ©trectton* 
for ©peing anb Staining 



BY 

SALLIE G. FITZGERALD 



PRICE, 25 CENTS 



PUBLISHED BY 

{Efje $ri£ictUa $ut)lt8ifnng Company 

85 BROAD STREET. BOSTON, MASS. 



Copyright, 1911, by The Priscilla Publishing Company, Boston, Mass. 







A Group of Baskets in Various Styles 



©CI.A306700 

Wo. 1 




Fig. 48. Various Pieces of Work made of Raffia 

See page 28 



20 



Vanity Bag of Silk and Raffia 



SOAK a piece of No. 4 reed and wrap an inch 
or so with raffia. Bend around as though to 
start a stitched basket, but leave the centre open. 
Continue wrapping the reed and joining to the 
preceding row by putting the raffia over and draw- 
ing through the loop, much like a buttonhole- 
stitch. Make the loops which join the rows to- 




Vanity Bag of Silk and Raffia 



gether a good inch apart, and wider apart as the 
work progresses. Four or five rows will make a 
base 4li inches in diameter. Bring the end of the 
last row around close to the previous row and 
wrap both as one until it is secure. Around the 
last row tie forty strands as we tied the strands 
in the beginning of the " Evening Bag," on page 31. 
Then tie two rows around the bag as the sides of 
the Evening Bag were tied. As we begin the 
second row the two left-hand strands in the first 
knot are doubled around the finger to form sort 
of a tassel and sewed fast to the knot and the long 
ends cut. The other two strands are tied to the 
next and treated in the same wav. Tie five knots 



for the second row, then finish the remaining 
strands as before. Going on around, the bag will 
be divided into four parts of five knots each, four 
strands in a knot. Each time around we finish off 
with a tassel, making fewer knots in a row, until 
we finally come to a point, and the four strands are 
finished off. The tassels, which should not be 
very long, are picked apart to 
look like fringe without cutting 
the loops. 

A bag of silk, with covered 
pasteboard bottom, is made 
and sewed inside. The base is 
sewed to the last row of reed 
and the four points are brought 
up and tacked to the sides. 

A very simple vanity bag is 
made by tying long strands of 
raffia in a small brass ring, the 
kind used to crochet over. See 
that the ring is well covered 
and then tie in rows, using the 
knot described on page 31. 
There is really no base to this 
bag, except that formed by the 
brass ring. Finish the top in the 
same manner as the other bags 
and line with a small square of 
silk, as we lined the evening bag 
on page 32. 

Raffia Hair Receiver. — Make 
a flat base 3P2 inches in diame- 
ter in the Figure Eight stitch 
described on page 26. Turn up 
and coil the sides into a decided 
orange shape. 

A good way to determine 
height of raffia baskets is to put 
about as many rows in the 
sides as there are in the base. 
This is a pretty good rule to 
follow for small baskets unless 
one is making a butter-bowl 
shape, which has no well de- 
fined base. 

Give to the sides, then, as 
man}' rows as there are in 
the base, shaping to a rather small opening at 
the top. Make a flat lid to just fit this top, and sew 
on with a raffia hinge. Or, if preferred, when the 
sides are a little over half done, finish and make 
an extra top thus: Start the coil with an open 
ring iyi inches in diameter. Coil on this until 
we have a lid which exactly fits the other part. 
This is patterned after the small china hair-re- 
ceivers with an opening in the top. 

Note. — To dye yellow brown boil the material 
slowly in the following solution for several hours: 
One tablespoonful of cutch extract to one of fustic 
in one quart of water. 



30 



An Evening Bag of Raffia 



SELECT nice long strands of raffia and begin 
by tying a slip knot in one strand as shown 

in Fig. si. In the illustration the piece of cane 

has nothing to do with the work, being simply 

used to hold up the raffia in order to get a better 

photograph of the knot. 

Also in Fig. 54 the cane 

is merely used for the 

same purpose. 

Now in this loop 

(Fig. 51) tie six other 

strands (Fig. 52), using 

the same knot, then 

draw up the first strand, 

thus completing a circle. 

Now every strand will 

•contain two pieces, and 

on each strand (A, B, C, 

etc.. Fig. 52) tie seven 

other strands, one below 

another, using the knot shown in Fig. 54, B. A 

in the same illustration shows the process of tying 

this knot. 

By this time it will be found necessary to tack 

the raffia to a board (through the circle formed 

by the first seven knots) or pin to the knee — the 

former method is, perhaps, more advisable, as one 

can move the board about and work more quickly 

than if stopping to unpin. 

Take the strand of the sixth knot from the centre 

in each group and tie all the intervening strands 

with the knot in Fig. 54 B. This forms one-half 

of the star, seven of which compose the pattern 

in the base. Figure 55 shows a section of the base 

and Fig. 53 shows the entire base. 

Now at the end 
of the seven knots 
we find four loose 
strands. Take the 
one to the left in 
the left hand, and 
the outside one in 
the next group 
(this group will 
contain twelve 
strands) in the 
right hand and tie 
an ordinary knot, 
tying twice to 
make it hold. 
Take the middle 
strand to the left 
in the former 
group in the left 
hand and tie again. 
Take strand num- 
ber two in the 
group of twelve 
and repeat the 
process until six 
strands of that 
group have been 




Fig. 50. An Evening Bag of Raffia 




used. Then begin with the other half, using the 
other group of four and tying down to a point 
which completes the star. 

In tying this half take the strand in the group 
of four in the right hand and the other in the left 

and proceed as before. 
In tying the knots 
care should be taken to 
tie each strand a little 
shorter so as to form a 
perfect star. In this 
matter one may easily 
be guided by the upper 
half of the design. 

When the stars are all 
tied take the four 
strands at the end of 
each star and tie a knot 
(Fig. 54 B) about a half- 
inch below the point. 
Using the same knot, tie all of the strands between 
each two stars. 

Now take a long piece of raffia, and, beginning 
with the strands at the point of the star, tie each 
one to the raffia in a simple over and through knot. 
Tie the four strands in a straight line, but upon 
coming to the next group tie each one a trifle 
longer until six have been tied, then shorter again. 
It might be well to hold each of these points to 
the board with a tack, leaving the tacks in until 
the sides of the bag are completed. When all 
strands have been tied on we have another and 
larger star enclosing the base. Tie ends in a 
firm knot. 

Take any four strands, and using the two outside 









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Fig. 51. Slip Knot for the 
Foundation 



Fig. 52. Six Strands of Raffia Tied into Loop 

See Fig. 51 



31 




Fig. S3. Bottom of the Finished 
See Fig. 55 
ones fashion a knot (Fig. 54 B). This knot is used 
for the remainder of the work. 

Tie all around in this manner, and then taking 
two strands of the last knot and two of the first 
go around again. 

Keep the first four or five rows almost perfectly 
flat on the board or lap and keep the knots equal 
distances apart. 

The remaining rows can be tied a trifle closer, 
as this is what shapes the bag. 

Tie around about twelve times, which makes an 
ordinary sized bag. Now to finish off the top. 
Select a long, firm strand of raffia and tie each 
strand to it with a double knot, tying the ends 
together when all have been tied on. Using an- 
other long strand repeat the process and we have 
a nice little finish which will not ravel when the 
remaining ends are neatly cut off. In finishing 
the top care must be taken not to make the open- 
ing too small. 

To line such a bag three-quarters of a yard of 
China — or any silk 27 inches wide — and three 
yards of ribbon are required. 



Bag 



Stitch a hem about 3 inches 
wide all around the silk, turn- 
ing the corners in carefully to 
make points. Run a casing in 
the hem as wide as the ribbon, 
having the space in the points 
between the two rows of stitch- 
ing open for the ribbon to run 
through. 

From the top of the casing 
to the end of each point should 
be neatly blind-stitched. 

Now cut the ribbon in two 
pieces and run through the cas- 
ing in the usual way, then divid- 
ing the raffia bag into four 
parts, place a point of the silk 
at each of the four parts with 
the strings out, not inside of the 
bag, and carefully sew around. 
The top of the bag will come 
exactly to the lower edge of 
the casing. 

It is a good plan to tack the 
lining to the bag with a couple of stitches here and 
there through some of the knots. 

A pure white or natural colored raffia bag is 
very pretty lined with any dainty color, and dark 
green raffia lined with light blue is most effective. 





Fig. 54. Finished Knot and Way of Making 



Fig. 55. Section of Base of Evening Bag. 
Actual Size See Fig. 53 



32 



Some More Pretty Bags 




AVERY elaborate bag is the one shown on the 
right of page 29. It is made exactly on the 
plan of the "Evening Bag" described en page 31; 
but as it is intended to carry slippers, it requires a 
much longer, or, as we should say in making, 
higher, bag. Therefore twenty-four rows are 
needed to be tied before it is finished off. This, of 
course necessitates silk for the lining 36 inches 
wide, and will require one yard. The bag here 
described has a lining 
of pink messaline with 
strings of pink satin 
ribbon. Three yards 
are required for the 
strings. If one does 
not wish such an elab- 
orate lining a pretty 
sateen will do, as it 
also comes 36 inches 
wide. Line just as we 
•did the Evening Bag. 

Figure 56. Work-bag. 
— The illustration here 
shown is the base of a 
popular work - bag. 
Start exactly as the 
Evening Bag, only use 
thicker strands of 
raffia. Make just like 
the Evening Bag until 
the point where the 
long strand was tied 
in the base forming a 
star and enclosing the 
smaller ones. Instead, 
-when the seven small 
stars are completed, 
tie the usual knot at 
the base of the star 
and there will be 
twelve strands between 
each two stars. With 
those tie three knots 
(four strands each), 
the ones nearest the 
point of the star should 
slant toward the point, 
and the middle one 
even. 

When all are tied tie a second row of knots 
all around the bag. Then soak a piece of No. 3 
reed, splice the ends together by wrapping with 
thread. This forms a ring about 5! 2 inches 
in diameter. Wrap closely with raffia and tie 
the ends in a small firm knot. Now lay it 
down on the bag so it is an equal distance from 
the last row of knots on every side. It will prob- 
ably have to be pinned or held in place by some 
one else. Tie each strand to this ring by slipping 
the end over the ring and up through the loop 
thus made. It will require a little care to get the 
ring in evenly. Now between every four strands 



tie on a new strand of raffia in this way. Double 
in the middle and slip both ends over the ring 
and up through the loop, drawing up tight to the 
reed. 

Finish the sides as before by tying each four 
strands in the knot described. About twelve or 
fourteen rows will make the bag large enough. 
Finish around the top as we did the Evening Bag. 

The lining is a little different, however. Cut 







two round pieces of cardboard the size of the base. 
Cover one side of one piece with a layer of cotton 
batting, then cover one side of each piece with silk 
and sew the two uncovered sides together, the side 
with the cotton batting going on the inside of the 
bag. For the sides cut a strip of silk once and a 
half as long as the bag is inches around. This will 
allow plenty of fulness. Cut 3 inches wider than 
the bag is high, turn down at the top, running hem 
and casing in together. Sew to the cardboard 
and tack inside the bag. The strings should be of 
silk cord to match the lining. The cheaper thin 
silks should be used for lining, as stiff silk cuts. 



33 



Raffia Hats and Caps 



THE easiest raffia hat is made from braided 
raffia, as shown in Fig. 57. Braid in three 
strands, using two pieces in each strand. It makes 
a little nicer-looking braid than three single strands. 
Wrap the end of the braid firmly with raffia and 
thread the same piece through a large needle and 
commence the hat. Keep the edges together in 
starting, in fact for several rows, then gradually 
flatten each row a little, just like a mat. This forms 
the top of the crown. When large enough begin 
the sides of the crown by sewing the edge of each 
row to the middle of the preceding row, and for 
the brim allow more freedom of the braid, but keep 
centre and edge of the two rows together as in the 




Fig. 57. Braided Hat 

sides of the crown. When the brim is the required 
width sew the last part of the last row of braid 
under the brim of the hat, winding the edges with 
raffia as we did in starting the hat. Measure over 
a straw sun-hat and it will be sure to fit com- 
fortably. 

This makes a large flat hat, but if a rolling brim 
is desired tighten the last few rows as they are 
sewed on. The sewing should all be done with 
fine raffia, in such a way that the stitches run the 
same direction as the twists in the braid. 

The hat may start, as described, in a point and 
a tall crown formed after the style of a sombrero, 
or any desired shape may be evolved as the braid 
lends itself readily to almost any shape. The braid 
may be of a solid color or of mixed colors, and 
while such hats are quite attractive it must be con- 
fessed that they are just a trifle heavy. 

A nice little automobile cap or bonnet, just 
enough to keep the dust from the hair, is made of 
raffia, just like the polo caps so popular in winter. 
The roll is smaller and a thin silk lining put in. 

As many do not know how to crochet these caps, 
the following method may be substituted with much 
the same effect. Split the raffia and start as we did 



the bag on page 31, only more than six strands are 
tied in if desired. About y 2 inch from the centre 
begin to tie the knots described on the sides of 
the bag on page 31 and continue row after row, 
keeping to the shape of the polo cap. This is easy 
to do for, as in the bag, tying each row of knots 
a trifle closer together pulls the shape in, while if 
the rows are far apart the circumference grows 
wider. Finish the edge as we did the bag, but do 
not line with the square of silk. Line with a plain 
round lining, or as we did the work-bag minus the 
pasteboard. A casing and strings are not neces- 
sary, though a tiny frill of ribbon or silk may 
finish the edge. 

A Lingerie Hat of 
Raffia. — The crown of 
this hat is shown in 
Fig. 58. Start as we 
did the Evening Bag, 
only instead of six tie 
in ten, making eleven 
double strands when 
the knot is drawn up. 
The ring thus formed 
need not be as small 
as the one in the bag. 
About I inch from the 
centre tie a row of 
knots as before. There 
will be eleven knots 
in this row. Then 1 
inch from this row tie 
another row, using two 
strands from each knot. 
Two more rows are 
tied in this way, eleven 
knots in each row. 
Then a piece of No. 1 reed is wrapped and tied 
in as in the work-bag described on page 33. The 
four strands of each knot are tied close together 
over the reed, leaving a space between each two 
knots. Four strands are tied in between each two 
knots and the top of the crown is completed. If 
this crown is larger than desired, the rows of 
knots may be tied closer together before the reed 
is tied on. Now tie several rows, the number 
depending upon the height desired. Tie them so 
the shape is straight up and down, and then tie 
in another very fine reed to form the base of the 
crown and the beginning of the brim. More 
strands may be tied in here if one desires to have 
the knots on the brim close together, but be sure 
to tie an equal number between each of the spaces. 
Tie five or six rows, keeping them out flat, and 
then finish with an edge as we did the bag, and 
sew a fine reed all around the edge with raffia to 
keep the brim in place. One should use a hat, a 
size that is becoming, and take the measurements 
of crown, brim, etc., from that. This hat should 
be lined with a thin silk and trimmed very simply. 
A large rose or wreath of fine flowers is quite 
sufficient, while the braided hat should have simply 



34 



a band and bow of ribbon, or band and braided 
knot of raffia. 

Another crown is made of very fine raffia, exactly 
like the base of the work-bag, and the hat finished 
like the one above. The reeds used in these hats 
must be extremely fine in order to make the hat 
light in weight. Or a very fine wrapped wire may 
be substituted for the reed, this having the advan- 
tage of being pulled into shape more easily without 
fear of breaking. 

A Raffia Hat over a Wire Frame. — Select any 
wire frame that is becoming and wrap the wires 
with raffia, sewing where necessary. Now, begin- 
ning at the centre of the crown and using the 
wire ribs as spokes, weave the entire hat closely 
and fasten the threads by sewing to the wire. The 
edge of the brim may be buttonholed, if desired. 

Hatpin Holder. — Make a raffia base in Lazy 
Squaw stitch the size of a quarter. Start the sides 
and keep the same circumference all the way to the 
top. The holder should be long enough to hold 
a hatpin and may have a little cushion into which 
the pins are stuck. If made with a foundation 
of No. 3 or 4 reed it works up quickly. Make a 
small handle of braided raffia about 3 inches long 
and sew to the holder with a plain thread of raffia. 
Fasten it between the 
middle and the top of 
the holder, sewing be- 
tween the reed and 
making the stitches 
go the same way as 
those in the holder. 



Basket to Hold Rib- 
bons. — Cut a very 
stiff piece of card- 
board 12 inches long 
and 4 inches wide and 
cover neatly w i t h 
flowered cretonne. 
Then very carefully 
bore fifty-eight holes 
around the edge — one 
at each corner, 
twenty-two on each 
side, and ten across 
each end. Cut four 
pieces of rather heavy 
reed each 3^2 inches 
longand putone 
through each of the 
corner holes. Now 
cut fifty-four pieces 
of Xo. three reed 
each 3 inches long 
and put through the 
remaining holes. Let 
the end of each spoke 
protrude slightly 
from each lower hole, 
just enough to catch 
a weaver over. Make 



all of the spokes even across the top, which pushes 
the four corner spokes a good half-inch below all 
of the others at the bottom. These form the feet. 
Now take a long splint or a split reed, putting the 
flat side towards the basket and hold it firmly 
around the basket just above where the spokes are 
inserted in the holes. Wrap the feet neatly with 
raffia and tie at each of the four corners to the 
splint band. Starting at one of the corners wrap 
down around the protruding spoke and up around 
the same spoke, going on to the next one and so 
around, thus securing the splint and holding all 
of the spokes in place. Now weave all around 
with braided straw in under and over weaving for 
1% inches. About five times around with the straw 
will make it. although the width of the straw has 
something to do with it too. Now cut fifty-four 
pieces of No. 3 reed each I inch lontj. Place one 
in the last row of weaving beside each spoke (omit- 
ting the corner spokes), keeping the tops even and 
bind another splint around with raffia just above 
the last row of weaving, catching this time the two 
pieces which now form every spoke. Make a lid 
like base, for the top, and fasten with narrow rib- 
bon hinges. This same idea may be carried out on 
a reed base made like No. 11 on page 13. Insert 
side spokes, doing away with the feet and band of 
splint. Finish top and lid with a fancy edge. 




Fig. 58. Crown of Lingerie Hat 
35 



Woven Raffia Mat or Rug 



FOR convenience in illustrating this rug is 
woven on a small loom 9 x 6 l / 2 inches, making 
the rug only 7% x 5% inches. 

Thus, if we want a larger mat or rug we must 
have a larger loom. 

Adjustable looms may be bought at various 
prices, according to size, etc. Loom needles can 
also be purchased, but if one does not expect to 
weave extensively a simple loom may be made at 
home. The one in the illustration, Fig. 60, is of 
pasteboard. Cut the pasteboard, as we said before, 
about gx6y 2 inches and % of an inch from both 
top and bottom, draw a line and mark off dots all 
along each line J4 of an inch or so apart. Number 
them I, 2, 3, 4, etc., from the right. Pierce the 
pasteboard, making a hole of each dot. At the 
right side run a long knitting-needle through the 
lower hole nearest the edge, across the pasteboard 
and through the opposite upper hole. Do the same 
on the left side. On a larger loom one must use a 
piece of stiff wire. These wires keep the sides of 
the rug straight, without them it would be difficult 
to keep the rug from falling in towards the middle. 

Thread a large needle with raffia and put through 
the fifth hole at the top, from the back to the front, 
through the fourth from front to back, etc., until 
we come to the first hole, when the needle is behind 
the loom. Put it through the first hole and down 




Fig. 59. Woven Mat or Rug 



across the right-hand wire and out the first hole 
at the bottom, through the second hole at the 
bottom and across to the second hole at the top 
(see illustration). Continue until all of the holes 
have been used and fasten as we started by putting 
the needle back and forth through several holes. 

Now we are ready to weave. Thread the needle 
again (the rug will be much thicker and firmer if 
the raffia used is heavy and smooth) and about six 
threads from the upper left-hand corner place the 
needle under a thread, over the next, etc., the wire 
and raffia over it being used as one thread. Let 
a little end of the raffia stick out at the right of the 
sixth thread. Put the needle back under the wire, 
over and under the same threads as we did in 
starting to weave until we come to the thread 
where we started, then continue over and under 
across the loom, around the wire and raffia and 
back again. Keep the weaving close by pushing 
gently towards the top where we started. When 
the loom is entirely filled the wires are pulled out 
and the loom cut away, being careful not to cut 
any of the raffia. The edge may be left as it is 
or sewed over and over with raffia, or a short 
fringe of raffia sewed on. 

Perhaps a firmer rug could be made by stringing 
the loom with stout twine and weaving with raffia. 
Now try weaving a border. Across the end weave 
several rows of a color, then one row of the natu- 
ral, several more of the color, then the body of the 
natural. Repeat this border at the bottom. 

A Border all Around. — Start the weaving with 
a color and weave a border about 2 inches across 
the top. Now with the needle threaded with natu- 
ral raffia place it just under the border 2 inches 
from the right. Weave across until 2 inches from 
the left, turn and gO back, leaving this much space 
on both sides and weave until within 2 inches from 
the bottom. Now thread with the color and begin 
at the upper right-hand corner and weave until we 
reach the thread that has the natural, turn on this 
thread and weave with the color along the right 
side as far as the natural raffia goes. Do this on 
the left side and then weave a 2-inch band of the 
color across the bottom. 

In piecing tie a small knot and cover with weav- 
ing, or lay an end under and over (the weaving) 
and proceed. 

Another Border. — Weave several rows of the 
natural, then two rows of brown (or any color), 
two of the natural, five of brown, three of 
natural. This forms the middle of the border. 
Repeat backwards — that is, five of brown, two of 
natural, two of brown. Weave the body of the 
mat. Repeat the border at the bottom. 

Plaid Rug. — String the loom with a few threads 
of one color, then of another, repeat the first color, 
etc. In the weaving use the colors in the same 
order and the rug will be plaid. 



36 



Designs. — String the loom with plain raffia, then 
every here and there weave a stripe or square or 
diamond of some color and fill in the open spaces 
with weaving of the natural. Thus we make designs 
in a rug. 

A Card-case. — Make just like the rug first de- 
scribed, about 4x9 or 10 inches when finished. 
Weave plain or with a design as preferred. A 
monogram is pretty if one is clever enough, then 
fill in with plain raffia. Cut the loom away and 
face one side with silk. Fold in the middle and 
then fold each end towards the centre for 2 inches. 
Sew the folded ends down to the sides with raffia. 
If an initial or monogram is used place it be- 
low the centre, so it will come on one side of the 
case. 

A Mat or Rug with Different Weaving on Each 
Side. — Make a loom as before, using wire on both 
sides, and in stringing put the needle through the 
first hole at the upper left-hand corner across the 
back to the hole at the lower left-hand corner, 
through this to the front and across the front to 
where it started. Tie it here and then put through 
the second hole from the left, across the back, 
through the second hole below, etc., until the holes 
are all filled and the loom is strung on both sides. 

In weaving begin at the upper right-hand side, 
weave over one and under one or over two and 
under two until the left side is reached, when the 
needle goes through the pasteboard to the other 
side, across that side and through to the right 
again. 

One side should have designs and the other be 
done in plain weaving. Be very careful in cutting 
the pasteboard away. 

A Shallow Flower Basket. — Make an oval base 
io;<4 x 7 inches, as described in No. 10 on page 13, 
only weave with raffia instead of reed. Use smooth, 
heavy raffia, or rush if preferred. Insert the side 
spokes and weave with fine reed a couple of rows of 
triple twist, then the remainder of the basket with 
raffia in pairing. The sides should be about 5 inches 
high, including edge. Use edge No. 17 on page 12, 
description on page 13. Bind the edge and the last 
row of weaving together all the way around with a 
piece of raffia. The rather low handle has three 
pieces of reed, one beside each of the three middle 
spokes on either side. They are wrapped with raf- 
fia in under and over weave across and back until 
almost the centre where the three pieces are treated 
as one and wrapped around and around until the 
same place is reached on the other side, when the 
raffia takes up the under and over weave again. 

Another shallow flower-basket is made entirely 
of reed — a very large oval base is made as de- 
scribed, but instead of inserting side spokes, the 
base spokes are left quite long and very gradually 
bent or rolled up on each side while the weaving 
continues, then the sides are given a slight roll 
outwards and the whole finished with edge on page 
6 — Fig 7. Handle No. 22 on page 13 should be 
used on this basket. 



Clothes Baskets are made on the same oval bases 
only of course on a much larger scale. Such a 
basket for a doll would greatly please any child. 
Make the base as above about 10 x 7 inches and 
the sides (with extra side spokes) about 6 inches 
high. Use edge 17 on page 13 and attach side 
handles described in the Willow Basket on page 
A7- 

Clothes Hampers. — Number 1 has a reed base 
and reed side spokes, which must all be colored a 
dark red before the weaving is begun. The base is 
woven flat on twelve spokes and is almost 12 
inches in diameter when finished without the 
edge. Make edge No. 12 on page 13 just as though 
we were making a mat. Now insert the side spokes, 
being careful not to injure the edge, and weave 
in pairing one row of red reed, two rows of dark 
green braid- 
e d straw, 
another of 
red reed, etc. 
all the way 
to the top. 
This use of 
the red 
weavers 
gives a plaid 
effect to the 
basket. Keep 
the sides 
straight and 
make the 
hamper 
about 25 
inches high. 
Make a cover 
like base, us- 
ing the same 
edge. Thus 
the edges on 
both base 
and cover 
protrude beyond the sides of the basket. Fasten 
the cover to the basket with the hinge shown on 
page 6, and the front fastening on the same page. 

Number 2 is a barrel-shaped hamper and is also 
made on twelve spokes, only it is concave instead 
of a flat base made entirely of reed. The reed 
in this hamper is a very faint tan and should be 
previously colored. Insert forty-eight side spokes 
and weave six or eight rows of the reed on triple 
twist, then about 6 inches of tan straw in pairing, 
another band of reed in triple twist and so on until 
the hamper is 25 or 26 inches high, Weave around 
the top a couple of times with reed before the 
edge is laid down. The bands of reed give the 
idea of hoops on a barrel. Use edge Xo. 16 on 
page 13. Make a lid also concave, the hollow part 
going inside. Use a few rows of reed to start 
and finish the cover, the intervening part being 
woven with straw. Use the same edge, Xo. 16 on 
page 13, and a hinge and fastening of the braided 
straw. 




Fig. 60. Loom for Mat 



37 




Fig. 6i. Some Easy Splint Work 

See page 39 



38 



Easy Splint Work 



THE illustrations on the preceding page are of 
Indian splints bought by the roll and easy to 
manage. The very first thing we shall learn to 
make is a square base, several of which are given. 
Number I is perhaps the easiest thing we can make. 
Cut twelve lengths of splint, each about J4 of an 
inch wide, six should be white and six some color. 
In this cut they are red. 

Lay them down vertically, first a red, then a 
white one, etc., until we have eight in a row. Then, 
beginning at one end — 5 or 6 inches from the 
edge — and using a white splint, weave under, over, 
etc., the white going under the white and over the 
red. Next use a red one and weave over, under, 
and over, the red going over the white and under 
the red. Use another white one, then another red 
one and our base is completed. The splints with 
which we weave should be equal distances apart, 
and enough edge should be left all around to turn 
up for spokes at the sides. Splints, like reed, 
should be wet before using, though with the ash 
splints used here a single dip in water will make 
them pliable enough. They also dry more quickly 
than reeds, and must be dipped in water more 
frequently. 

Number 2 is the base of an oblong basket, and 
the splints there used are quite narrow. Eight are 
laid down vertically and the weaving done with six 
splints of the same width, and all of white ash. 

Number 3 is a square base or a good way to 
make a cover. Lay down, horizontally, five colored 
splints equal distances apart. Weave in under and 
over, weaving first with a red splint, then two white 
ones, then another red one, and so on until ten 
weavers have been used. Notice that the fourth 
and fifth weavers from each end are woven the 
same way, both under and both over the same 
splints, etc. Now with a white splint weave under 
the corner, over all of the others until we come to 
the middle, where it goes under, and again over 
the others until we come to the opposite corner. 
Weave from the other two corners in the same way. 
The ends of these two diagonal pieces are now cut 
back of the corners under \vhich they were started. 
They w-ill easily hold when the spokes are turned 
up for the sides. 

The large baskets used for delivering, etc.. are 
made on this plan, though, of course, the splints used 
are much wider and thicker. Also, instead of fin- 
ishing the top, as is described on page 40, a strip 
of the wood is neatly nailed around with tiny nails. 

Number 4 is a mat made with rather broad splints 
woven into a square in under and over weaving. 
Ten splints are used — five laid horizontally and 
five used as weavers. When all are in place a strand 
of raffia is doubled around a spoke (piece of splint) 
and a border woven in pairing, being careful to 
keep the corners square. When the border is as 
deep as desired the ends of the weavers are tied 
around the spoke and the ends of the splints cut. 



Then a needle is threaded with raffia and the edge 
buttonholed all around the needle, going not only 
through the raffia between the spokes but through 
the spokes as well. If desired, a braid of raffia may 
be sewed around the edge. 

This is also a nice way to finish a round mat. The 
round bases are described on page 40. 

Splint Basket with Compartments. — For this 
basket cut white ash splints the kind used in the 
illustrations on page 38. Cut eighteen of them 
each 12 inches long, and twenty-four each about 
I7J-2 inches long. Each one should be about Yi 
inch wide. Lay down vertically nine of the 17^- 
inch ones and about z l A inches from one end begin 
to weave a base with the 12-inch ones, letting about 
lYi inches protrude to the left before we start to 
weave. Such a base is shown in Fig. 66, page 42. 
When we come to the ninth splint, w^et and turn 
sharply up as for a side. Close to that lay the 
remainder of the i7J/2-inch vertical spokes and 
weave with the remaining horizontal ones, and 
upon coming to the centre again turn up the ver- 
tical spokes close against the others and weave 
over and under with more splints the same width, 
thus forming a partition up the middle of the base. 
Where the two parts of the base come together 
a splint is woven vertically over and under to hide 
the place of joining. Now all around the outer 
edge of the base weave once with a very fine splint 
not much wider than a cord. The finished base 
is nJ4 x 8y 2 . Wet the splints and turn up for the 
sides. Weave twice around with a J/a-inch splint 
and between these two rows of weaving twist a 
roll of yi-'mch splint as follows. Place under the 
the first row of weaving, give a turn or twist and 
slip under the second row, another twist and 
back under the first row and so on all the way 
around. Then put in six rows of the narrow splint 
with which we bound off the base and two more 
rows of the wider, and between them a roll like 
the one just described. Now around both inside 
and outside of basket and both sides of partition 
run a flat reed and bind over and over with a nar- 
row splint. Trim the edges of the spokes close 
to the binding around top. At the ends attach 
small ring handles like the one shown on page 
38. The cover which just fits this basket is made 
as a flat base. On the fifth splint from each side 
is placed a reed n]4 inches long and on the third 
from each end is placed one % l /i inches long. The 
reeds are put in to make the lid firm and the weav- 
ing goes over and under them as usual. Three 
rows of fine splint are woven around the edge, the 
ends of the mat or cover tucked in under the 
weaving, and a roll similar to the ones on the 
basket is put on just inside of the narrow splints 
around the edge. The lid is not fastened to the 
basket, but is lifted by means of a small ring at- 
tached to the middle of the cover, through a smaller 
one, the ends of which are woven off under the 
splints on the inside of the cover. 



39 



Round Splint Baskets 



THIS basket may be built upon either of the 
bases here shown. The first one, Fig. 62, 
contains eleven spokes, ten of equal length and 
the other one half the length of the longer ones. 



■■■■ 


Wm 

I 

■ - ' ., H| 7 H 


1 Btf ^^^^ffc^^fc^™ 


P 7 i| 



Fig. 62. A Round Basket 

Lay a spoke down vertically and cross it horizon- 
tally with another, cross the corners, diagonally, 
and continue crossing the corners, which are now 
closer together, until the ten spokes have been used. 
Stick the half spoke in securely between the others. 

Now double a piece of raffia or a long splint, so 
fine as to be scarcely more than a cord (previously 
wet if the splint is used), around a spoke and weave 
in pairing. The half spoke, as will be seen, is put 
in to make the odd number. Great care must be 
taken in starting these bases. When a couple of 
rows have been woven the remainder is easy. 

The second base, Fig. 64, is much the same. 
Six splints each 13 inches long and J4 OI an i ncn 
wide and one splint 13 inches long ]/\ of an inch 
wide at one end and y 2 inch wide at the other are 
required. Cross them as in Fig. 63 and then split 
the one spoke from the y 2 inch end to the centre. 
This again gives the odd number, without which 
the under and over weave will not come out even. 
Take a piece of splint extremely narrow and very 
pliable, insert between the spoke which has been 
split and weave around in under and over weaving. 
If a splint is not easily managed split a piece of 
No. I reed (previously well soaked) and use half 
of it. It will perhaps reach the centre better as 
it is round on one side. Just as in the other base, 
when the spokes are crossed and bound together 
the hard part is accomplished. Weave this entire 
base in under and over weaving until 2^4 inches in 
diameter. Wet the spokes and turn up evenly. 
Take a weaver a trifle narrower than the spokes 
and weave the basket in under and over weaving. 

Great care must be taken to keep the weavers 
close to the base and close together. It is a trifle 
hard to keep the shape of such a basket, and also 
to keep the weavers down, especially if they are 
somewhat broad. 

In piecing, simply place the new weaver back 
of the old one and weave as before. When the 



basket is ■$% inches high finish the weaving by cut- 
ting the weaver to a point and running along back 
of one or two spokes. 

Now cut the remaining ends of the upright 
spokes and bend them either inside or outside of 
the basket, right down over the same spoke be- 
tween the weaving. Thus one spoke goes over 
the last row of weaving and the next spoke goes 
outside of it. 

Press the spokes down very closely, so the top 
of the basket has quite a plain appearance. Now 
take a very narrow weaver and pass through one 
of the spokes where it is bent over at the top, 
across the next, through the next, etc. Draw in 
a very little and keep close to the top. Finish as 
we did the weaving by cutting to a point and pass- 
ing through a couple of the bent down spokes. 

Another edge, shown in Fig. 65, makes a nice 
finish. After the edge has been turned down out- 
side, take a long splint as wide as the weavers in 
the sides of the basket, select any spoke and slip 
the weaver under or rather through from right to 
left in the top row. Holding the short end in place 
with the left hand, pass the long end over and then- 
back under the same spoke in the row beneath. 
Then back to the next spoke on the right and 
repeat all around, fastening the end down under 
a spoke. 

Side handles make a nice addition to such bas- 
kets. Take a piece of splint about y 2 inch broad 
and 6J4 inches long and overlap the ends a little 
way, forming a ring. Then with a long narrow 
piece of splint,-well soaked, wrap around the ring,, 
the wraps being not too close together. Start by 
laying the long end of the splint along the ring, 
pointing to the right, then wrapping back over it. 
When the point is covered turn the ring upside- 
down and wrap in the usual way. Fasten by push- 
ing the end back itnder several wraps. 

Now take a short piece of splint l / 2 inch wide 
and placing it over the ring like a fold press the 
ends down over a spoke and between the weavers. 




Fig 63. First Bash 



40 




Fig. 64. Seconu Base 



Fasten an- 
other ring in 
t li e same 
way to the 
opposite side 
of the bas- 
ket. 

These rings 
may have 
raffia laid 
along the top 
and then 
bound to- 
gether with 
the under 
splint in the 
same way, or 
they may be 
well wrap- 
p e d with 
raffia and 
sewed to the basket. A round handle is shown 
in the illustration on page 38. 

Another round basket has the base started with 
a fine piece of splint, which gradually grows 
broader as we leave the centre, until it is as wide 
as the spokes. Make the base about 5 inches in 
diameter and the sides 2 inches high. After the 
spokes are turned down in the plain finish de- 
scribed above, place a band of raffia or a narrow 
band of splint around the top and sew over and 
over with raffia, or bind with a narrow splint, as 
we did the ring handles. This basket may or may 
not have the side handles. 

If the weaver in the base is too wide it will 
pucker, thus drawing the base up in the centre. 
Deft fingers may pinch the weaver between the 
spokes into tiny plaits, which will lie flat when the 
base is finished, and will not be unattractive. 

Occasionally in such baskets weave in a couple 
of rows of braided raffia or raffia in pairing or 
triple twist. Or use splint weavers in different 
colors and widths. Stripes, squares, etc., will sug- 
gest themselves as one works. 

Work Basket with Wooden Base. — The founda- 
tion of this basket is a wooden base 5 inches square. 
Bore forty-eight holes around near the edges and 
insert in them splints y/ 2 inches long and I4 of an 
inch wide. Lay a reed around to hold them and 
bind fast with a narrow splint. Immediately above 
this run ribbon I inch wide in and out like the under 
and over weave, then a reed laid on the outside and 
bound to each spoke with a splint. Next, a row 
of straw 1 inch wide, another row of ribbon and 
another reed bound on. Last, two pieces of splint 
— one on the inside and one on the outside of the 
spokes. The spokes are cut close and a narrow 
band of straw laid along the top, and this and the 
two pieces of splint are bound fast with a narrow 
splint. Wrap once and then pull a loop in the 
straw, another wrap and another loop, etc., all 
around. At the middle of each side of the basket 
the loops are made gradually larger, giving a 



pointed effect on each side. The basket has a 
thick, padded lining to match the ribbon in color. 

Wood Basket for Fireplace. — This basket is 
made from oak splints 2 inches wide. Weave into 
a base 8 x 16 inches, after the manner of the square 
bases shown on page 38 and described on page 39. 
Soak well and turn up the sides and weave twice 
with 2-inch splints. Around the inside and outside 
of the top lay bands of the oak three-fourths of an 
inch wide and fasten securely with the smallest 
of nails. The handle is a broad piece of oak a 
little over an inch in width, run down through the 
side weaving and secured at the top with the small 
nails. Do not dye this basket, but stain with the 
Turpentine and Light Oil Finish to which a few 
drops of cherry stain have been added. The result 
will be the dull terra-cotta so much seen in Indian 
baskets. 

Wall Pocket for Letters. — Cut very narrow 
splints 18 inches long and enough when laid side 
by side vertically to measure 7 inches across. Have 
the splints all of the same width and just far 
enough apart to allow a weaver to go between. 
Exactly through the middle weave a row or two 
of pairing with narrow splints, then dip in water 
and bend up the sides and continue the weaving 
until the basket is finished. It will be a flat pocket 
about 6x7 inches. For the edge turn the splints 
over, lay lengths of splint along the inside and 
outside and wrap with a very narrow splint bind- 
ing, or use one of the edges described on page 
40. This pocket may be simply fastened to the 
wall by a tack or may have a flat splint handle 
described in the long basket on page 42. This 
same idea may be carried out on a larger scale, 
making pockets for newspapers, wrapping paper, 
etc. Plaid and striped effects are easily gained by 
using different colored splints. 




Fig. 65. Detail of Fancy Edge 



More Splint Baskets 



FOR this basket three splints, each 6 inches 
long and J4 inch wide, and four splints, each 
14 inches long and l /z inch wide are used. Lay down 
horizontally first one of the long splints, then a 
short one, another long one, etc., as shown in 
Fig. 66. Now cut seven splints, each 14 inches 
long and a little less than y 2 inch wide. Weave 
with these. Take the first one, which goes over 




Fig. 66. Square or Oblong Base for 
Splint Basket 

one, under one, etc., or under the edge of the three 
short splints. When we have used the seventh it 
will also be under the three short ones on the other 
end. See that the two end weavers are directly 
under the ends of the short pieces. Wet thor- 
oughly and turn up. Now start a weaver behind 
any splint and go around in under and over weav- 
ing. When around start another and go around 
in the same way. Keep the weavers down and turn 
the corners sharply, holding the two corner splints 
well together and bending the weaver to fit the 
corner. If the side weavers are narrow, the effect 
will be far prettier and the basket easier to handle. 

When the basket is about two inches high, finish 
by putting the ends of the splints down between 
the weaving, as in the basket shown in Fig. 62, only 
do not press them down flat, leave enough stand 
up to form a loop. A splint is then woven around 
the top as in Fig. 62, page 40. 

Many attractive boxes for candy, gloves, etc., can 
be made in this manner. A square one for hand- 
kerchiefs and an oblong one for gloves, etc. Make 
just like the basket above, finish with the flat edge, 
then make a cover like. the base, only a trifle larger; 
turn up as for a basket, but weave only a few rows 
and finish with the edge as shown in Fig. 65. 



The Long Basket, with the handle, which is 
shown on page 38, was made by western Indians. 
The oblong base is made as the one described 
above, only the splints are quite narrow and all of 
the same width. The sides are woven diagonally 
of extremely fine splints, and the handle is like the 
long ones shown on page 38, and made thus: Lay 
two pieces of splint, the required length for a 
handle, side by side, and with a very narrow splint 
weave over one and under the other, up over that 
one and down under the first again until the entire 
handle is wrapped in this way. Push the edge of 
the splints, as well as the beginning of the weaver, 
under the weaving and finish the other end in the 
same way. Such handles should be sewed to the 
basket with strong thread. If the splints are very 
thin, or if raffia is used also, lay several pieces to- 
gether, one under another, forming two piles of 
splints, and fasten them together as before. Some- 
times the under pieces are splint and the filling on 
top of raffia or some other grass. This makes a 
nice handle if the basket has some raffia woven in. 

The Little Straw Baskets seen in candy and fruit 
stores are made in this way, with a splint base and 
several rows of braided straw woven in the sides. 
Some of them also have splint sides. These baskets 
are made largely in Japan, but are extremely easy 
to imitate. 

A Clothes Hamper can be made on a round or 
square base, as already described, though the splints 
for these baskets must be much thicker, preferably 
of oak. 

Make the base quite flat and the sides with a 
very slight flare towards the top. A narrow band 
of the oak should be neatly tacked around the top 
with the tiniest of short nails. A flat cover may be 
made and fastened with a narrow splint hinge, like 
the one in the reed basket on page 6. 

How to Cane a Chair 

Cane is sold at the same places where basket 
materials are kept and comes put up in bundles like 
reed. Instead of being numbered the. different 
widths are called coarse, fine, etc. 

Take the chair which needs recanmg and cut 
away all of the cane close to the wood. First find 
the centre hole of the lower row and draw up 
through it a piece of cane which has been soaked 
a little while. Take across to the top and down 
through the centre hole in the top row, fasten with 
a peg and let a few inches hang down beneath. 
Now go back to the bottom and bring up the cane 
through the next hole on the right, keep it flat and 
take across to the top where it goes down through 
the next hole. Continue filling the holes to the 
right, omitting the one next the edge, and keeping 
the weaving quite loose. 

Finish the edge on the wrong side by drawing 
the cane a couple of times through the loop next it. 



42 



Go back to the centre of the bottom and fill the 
holes from there to the left side in the same way. 
Turn the chair around, start with one of the sides 
and go through the same process, remembering 
here also to keep the cane loose. The seat is now 
filled with small squares. Start at the lower left- 
hand corner and weave the cane over and under 
the small crosses and single canes until we reach 
the opposite side or upper right-hand corner. Go 
from centre to right, then from centre to left as 
before, and then start from the opposite corner 
and repeat. 

Now cover the holes with a row of binding cane 
used for this purpose. It is brought through one 
of the corner holes and laid over the holes all along 
the edge and held in place by a narrow piece of 
cane, which is brought up through every other hole 
and down again. When the edge is completed the 
binding-cane is put through the hole from which 
it started and finished off, as before described, on 
the wrong side. 

Porch and garden chairs are done in flat rush, 
or wide cane, or splints, usually in the under and 
over weave, around the edges of the chair and 
across the under side and up again being woven 
off on the under side. A common pattern is to 
lay the vertical spokes across the frame and weave 
horizontally with two weavers laid side by side 
and used as one. Weave the back to match. 

Clothes Hamper of Willow and Rush. — This has 
for a foundation a round wooden base about 10 
inches in diameter. Cut the side spokes about 30 
inches long and cut twice as many as there are 
holes in the base and insert two in each hole. 
Instead of pulling them up through the holes (see 
F'g' 33- P a ge 18) let 4 inches of each spoke pro- 
trude below the base, spread apart, keeping two 
pieces in each spoke and weave five or six times 
around with willow in double pairing and finish 
with edge No. 17 on page 13. The basket is now 
turned up and the sides built. Weave a couple of 
times around with willow in double pairing, then 
finish the basket with rush in single pairing until 
an inch or two before the top is reached, when we 
have another row or two of double pairing in wil- 
low and any fancy edge desired. This basket is 
about 2$ inches high and is the shape of the stone 
water-pitchers that the women of long ago carried 
on their shoulders. It has quite large ring handles 
made of braided rush and attached to the sides with 
a .small piece of willow twisted around and woven 
off on the inside of the basket. 

An Orange-Shaped Basket to hold balls of yarn 
is made of fine reed previously colored. Start on 
the order of the bird's nest on page 19 and weave 
into a shape which looks just like the half of an 
orange. Finish with edge No. 17 on page 13 
and then make another basket on the same dimen- 
sions just like the first one. Place the two pieces 
together with a small hinge and attach a long 
twisted handle to the lower half of the basket. 

Odd-Shaped Baskets such as heart shape, etc., 



are made on thin wooden bases cut into the desired 
shape. The wood may be stained to match the 
reed, or a design burned in and painted. Insert 
the side spokes as in the Ribbon Box on page 35, 
omitting the feet but keeping the protruding spokes 
perfectly even, or if preferred put in the spokes as 
in Fig. 33, page 18, only having an even number 
of holes in the base. Use, for the sides, fine reed 
in any weave, bending the spokes in and out as the 
case may be to keep the shape of the base. If a 
cover is desired use one in burnt wood to match 
the base. 

Trays for Tea or Coffee Service. — The bases 
should be of wood as they stand much better than 
if woven of reed. Select then a wooden base at 
least 8 x 16 inches, either oblong or oval, and burn 
it in any chosen design. With a small paint-brush 
touch up the design and then bore an even number 
of holes around the edge. Do not insert all of 
the side spokes at once. Put in about a dozen and 
pull several inches through on the under side of 
the base and make the following edge: Take No. 
1 back of No. 2, in front of No. 3 and push down 
and cut off inside. Insert several more spokes and 
continue the edge all around. When finished turn 
the tray right side up, straighten the upstanding 
spokes and weave four or five times around in 
triple twist. Use any flat edge as a finish. The 
tray may be with or without side handles. If 
handles are used they should be the upright ones 
described on page 47. 

Flat Card Basket with Braided Handle. — Start 
like flower-bowl, using sixteen spokes and weave 
a base 5 inches in diameter. Then a braided handle 
is inserted as described on page 13 (No. 21.) The 
base is now woven another inch and the sides 
turned up and woven in pairing about an inch high. 
For the border each spoke (two pieces) is brought 
back of the next one on the right, in front of the 
next, and down back of the next, and cut off inside 
of the basket. If long weavers are chosen the 
entire weaving may be done without any piecing. 




Fig. 67. Basket in Process of Making 



43 



A Work Bag of Splints 



THIS unique bag is really not as hard to make 
as it looks. Cut nine pieces of white splint, 
each 6 inches long, and one piece 4 inches long. 
Each of the nine pieces should be cut in the shape 

of B, Fig. 69, 
about % of an 
inch at the 
widest part 
and quite nar- 
row in the 
middle. The 
other piece 
should be 
slightly over 
half as long as 
the others 
(see A, Fig. 
69). Arrange 
the base as 
shown in Fig. 
63, and, using 
fine raffia, 
start to weave 
as close as 
possible to the 
centre. As we leave the centre, coarser strands 
of raffia may be used. The weaving is done in 
pairing, just like Fig. 63, only raffia is used all the 
way out to the edge. The base may be kept per- 
fectly fiat or made slightly concave. When almost 
6 inches in diameter tie the weavers in a knot 




Fig. 68. For the Thimble 



around a spoke and clip the edges of the spokes 
evenly all around. With a large needle threaded 
with raffia carefully buttonhole the entire circum- 
ference. If it seems a trifle loose, go over it again, 
this time in the opposite direction. Make a bag 
out of silk or ribbon 40 inches long and 7J-4 inches 
wide. Run in a casing with strings of ribbon or 
silk cord (two yards for 
the strings) and sew the 
bag to this base. The tiny 
pincushion inside should 
match the bag in color and, 
if possible, in material. 
The raffia in this bag is of 
the natural color, but raffia 
to match or harmonize 
with the silk works up well, 
and the dark colors do not 
show the usage as much 
as the lighter ones. 



1 



U 



Fig. 09 

Splints for 

Foundation of 

Fig. 70 



Figure 73. Thread Bas- 
ket. — Cut nine splints, or 

rather eight and a half, the same shape, eight 
should be 4% inches long and the other 2% inches 
long. Put together and weave in the same way, 
using fine raffia. When the base is a good l l /z 
inches in diameter, wet the spokes and turn up 
evenly all around. Weave as before until the sides 
are 1J/2 inches high, when the edge is finished off 
with buttonholing- like the base. Start another 




Fig. 70. A Work Bag of Splints. Inside of Bag 
44 



base in the same way, and when 2 l /i inches in 
diameter (or as large as the diameter of the top of 
the basket) wet and turn up, weaving the sides a 
good J4 of an inch high. Finish off like the others 
and fit over the top of the little basket for a cover. 
Sew the back of the cover to the back of the 
basket with raffia, leaving loose enough to open 
and shut nicely. With a needle draw a strand of 
raffia through the centre of the top of the cover 
and tie in several knots to form a small knob. 

This basket 
will be large 
enough to 
c o n v e n i- 
ently hold a 
spool of 
thread. 

Figure 68. 
Thimble 
Basket. — In 

exactly the 
same w a y 
m a k e a n- 
c t li e r little 
basket for 
the thimble, 
making the 
lia^e almost 
I inch in di- 
ameter a n d 
the sides 1% 
inches high. 
If it seems 
difficult t o 
manage s o 

many small pieces, use seven long pieces and one 

short one in the thimble-case. 

Figure 71. Pincushion. — Now make a third 
basket with a base 1 inch in diameter and ]/ 2 inch 
high. Instead of a cover a small pincushion is 
made and sewed inside. 

Figure 72. Scissors-case. — One more article 
belongs to this bag. Take a pair of embroidery 
scissors and wrap a splint the width of the scissors 
across the points and reaching well up to the 
handle. Wrap another splint the opposite way 
(the splints must be wet until very pliable). If 
laid out flat these splints would form a cross. 
Hold securely to the scissors and weave with 
raffia from the point to the handle in under and 
over weaving. It will go easier if the raffia is 
threaded through a needle and woven that way. 
After a good start is made, each spoke may be 
divided in half, making eight instead of four spokes. 
Finish like the thread and thimble baskets around 
the edge and sew the raffia in two loops at the 
back of the case to better represent scissors. Sew 
the thread-case to the middle of the large base, 




Fig. 72. For Scissors 




the thimble- 
case and pin- 
cushion o n 
one side and 
the case for 
scissors o n 
the other 
side. 

A bag like 
this, woven 
with flat rush 
instead of 

raffia, is firm, attractive, and the work moves along 
quickly, though the rush, especially in starting, 
must be quite fine. 

A Collar and Cuff Box on this plan is quite new. 
The splints will need to be cut much longer, and we 
will use more of them — eleven long ones and one 
half length. Weave with raffia into a base about 
7 inches in diameter, then wet and turn up the 
spokes as we did for the thread-case. Do not 
flare, but keep the sides quite straight and weave 
high enough to hold a man's cuff. Then make a 
perfectly flat cover a trifle larger in diameter than 
the top of the basket. Turn up and weave the 
sides perfectly straight. This cover is not sewed 
fast to the basket but is made large enough to fit 
snugly over the top. Such a box is durable and 
weighs next to nothing. 

Another box might be patterned after the square 
splint basket, the base made of splints and the 
sides woven with raffia. These same bases, thread, 
thimble and scissors cases, may be bought in many 
of the stores, but they are somewhat expensive 
where enough are collected for a bag, and they 
are also made of sea grass which has an odor 
offensive to some persons. 




Fig. 73. For Thread 



45 



Hints and Suggestions 



THE basket-maker should now try some ideas 
of her own. So many materials about one's 
home may be utilized — grasses, leaves of the cat- 
o-nine-tail, willow, etc. Then as to shape and de- 
sign there is practically no limit to the scope of 
one's ideas. 

Some suggestions will be here given 
that the maker may work out for her- 
self. With the knowledge of basketry 
already acquired this should not be 
difficult. 

First the bag here shown, Fig. 75. It 
is worked in raffia on heavy canvas. The 
details of the stitches and design are 
given, and anybody who can use a needle 
will find it easy to make. 



Then in coloring — in mixing colors, 
weavers, and designs, one may gain odd 
and beautiful effects. 



study color and design on a pretty piece of matting 
and imitate on the loom. 

The small wire lamp and candle shade frames are 
easily wrapped and decorated or woven with raffia. 



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!5""SSS"!55«"«»«" 



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Fig. 74. Border Design in Raffia 



Take the raffia mat or rug on page 36. Sofa 
pillows, picture-frames, pocketbooks, tooth-brush 
holders, etc., may be made on the same plan. Also 




Fig. 75. Raffia and Canvas Bag 
See detail Fig. 76 



Raffia may be braided and sewed into a napkin- 
ring, or reeds wrapped and bound together into a 
napkin-ring. 

Very many little baskets of reed, raffia, 
and splint may be made round or square 
and put to vise in numberless ways. Some 
padded and lined with silk, with the addi- 
tion of a cover, make odd jewel-cases. Or 
very tiny baskets to hold salted nuts or 
bonbons, placed at each plate, make unique 
favors for a luncheon. 

Patterned after the " Flower Bowl " on 
page 7, a glass, vase, or bottle may have a 
netting of reeds. 

Buy a pair of slipper soles, sew strands of 
raffia all around and, using the knots de- 
scribed on page 31, weave a pair of house 
sandals. 

Deep Work-basket. — Make a deep bowl- 
shaped basket. Start it much on the order 
of the birds' nests, only much deeper and 
wider, and keep the base flat to make it 
stand well. Make the spokes of reed, and 
weave with rush. Do not soak the rush too 
long, as it readily takes up the water and 
then shrinks when dry, thus spoiling the 
shape" of the basket. Also when weaving 
with rush press each weaver very closely 
against the last one for the same reason. 
Weave a few rows of reed in triple twist 
around the top just before finishing off. 
This will help the border to stay down. 
Use border No. 16 on page 13. Make the 
cover just like the basket, and when it is 
just the size of the basket finish with the 
same border. This basket should have a 
hinge (see description and illustration on 
page 6) of narrow rush and a little knot or 



46 



bow of rush to lift the cover 
by. The knot is made by slip- 
ping the rush through the weav- 
ers in the centre of the cover 
and tying the ends in a knot or 
bow. The very small, flat 
pieces of rush are necessary for 
hinge and knot, also in starting 
tile basket. It may also be 
started with fine reed, and since 
the borders of both basket and 
cover are of reed the hinge may 
be of reed also. 

A Doll's Table is not hard to 
make, and might interest the 
children. Use pieces of reed at 
least 25 inches long and weave a 
base or mat several inches in 

diameter on six or eight spokes. Make the border 
like No. 12 on page 13, only instead of cutting the 
spokes push them through the weaving almost to 
the centre and bring out on the inside. Be sure to 
bring each row out between the same rows of 
weaving. Soak the spokes and bind together 
firmly in a bunch and then separate into three or 
four groups, each group being wrapped with raffia 
and serving as a leg. 

A chair may be made in the same way, and by 
inserting extra spokes a back may be attached. 

For one starting in the basket business and 
wanting a souvenir or advertisement of her work 
a very pretty one can be made as follows: Take 
a small piece of cardboard and prepare a loom — 
page 36, only drawing an oblong space inside and 
stringing with raffia as far as this space instead 
of all the way across. 

Weave as we did the rug and then sew a band 
of raffia or rush around the inside and a 
couple of rows around the outside. Paste 
a plain piece of cardboard across the back 
The centre space should be utilized for ad- 
vertising matter or souvenir verse and a 
small calendar attached below. 



A Willow Basket. — This idea may be car- 
ried out in reed, as willow requires an almost 
unlimited stock of patience. A base y/z inches 
in diameter is woven on eight quite heavy 
spokes. Instead of inserting thirty-two side 
spokes, one on each side of a base spoke, use 
sixty-four, two on each side. Use fine willow 
for these, about the thickness of No. I reed. 
Each two side spokes are now treated as one. 
and a row of triple twist is woven and then 
the weaving starts in double pairing, which 
continues for 4 inches, when two rows of 
single pairing are woven. Then the remain- 
ing spokes are wet and the following border 
woven. Still treating two spokes as one 
number them 1, 2, 3, 4, etc. Bring 1 back of 
2, over 3, back of 4, over 5, back of 6, and 




76 



The Pattern Used for the Bag 

See Fig. 75 



cut off just so the edges rest on the outside 
of spoke 7. Do not press down close to the top 
of the basket, but leave about the space of an 
inch, which will be filled in in turn by the other 
spokes. The basket should have a very slight flare 
outward from bottom to top, and should measure 
38 inches in circumference around the top when 
completed. 

Two pieces of reed each eight inches long are cut 
and used as upright handles, one on each side. 
Press the end of one piece down to the left of a 
spoke through the edge and through about three 
rows of weaving below the edge. Leave two in- 
tervening spokes and press the other end down to 
the left of the next spoke. Wrap with a flat piece 
of willow. Start by twisting several times 
through the edge and around the handle, wrap 
across the handle and repeat. On the opposite 
side of the basket the other handle should be 
similarly placed. 



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Fig. yy. A Florentine Pattern in Raffia 



47 



Where and How to Sell Baskets 



THIS side of the subject will prove interesting 
mainly to those who wish to take up Bas- 
ketry as a livelihood or to the home girl who wishes 
to earn a little pin-money. 

Take first the girl who works for herself. She 
can afford to sell her baskets somewhat cheaper 
than those made in a shop or factory, as she has 
no labor for which she must pay a reasonable sum, 
and she is at no great loss if there should be a 
slump in the sale of baskets. 

Such a maker can easily sell a small work-basket 
for twenty-five cents, a flower-bowl or carrying 
basket for fifty cents, and a scrap-basket for a 
dollar and a half. 

The evening bag and work-bag bring each a 
dollar and a half, while the raffia baskets, owing to 
the time spent on them bring higher prices. They 
run from one to five dollars, according to size. 

And even if one does not earn so much money, 
think of the pretty gifts to be made at small cost, 
and the attractive, as well as useful, articles that 
may be added to one's home. 

The girl wishing to start a shop must do things 
on a much larger scale. She must lay in a good 
supply of materials and expect some waste while 
her laborers are learning the trade. The best way 
is to have one person make bases, another do the 
finishing, etc., or teach each one to make a special 
kind of basket. In this way each becomes proficient 
in her work and better results are obtained. 

Those who color, polish, and pack should receive 
a weekly salary, but the makers do piece work, 
thus each one's earnings depend upon her quick- 
ness and neatness. 

Of course the flower-bowl coming from a shop 
will cost from seventy-five cents to a dollar and a 
half, for the maker must be paid from ten to twelve 
and a half cents, and the selling commission be 
taken into account. 

A scrap-basket bought at such a place will be at 
least four dollars. Of course seconds — baskets 
made by beginners — a little untrue as to shape 
and with slight mistakes in weaving, etc., may be 
bought much cheaper. 

How Large Shops Sell. — Once or twice a year 
a room is rented, a sale advertised, and the baskets 
sold in this way. Also several times a year the 
salesman or woman, as the case may be, takes 
several hundreds of baskets to the larger cities, 
rents a room in a fashionable hotel and sends out 
cards to dealers and friends, their friends and 
acquaintances, etc., Of course high prices are 
asked, but this must needs be, as she who runs a 
shop is put to great expense. Also, the girl who 
wishes to start a shop, hire helpers, and go into 
business must have a license, but it is a business 
which, if well run, is both fascinating and lucrative. 

A very encouraging fact to those who wish to 
make a business of basketry is that it is not a 
passing fad, but a sure means of earning a liveli- 
hood. It is work that may be done equally well 
by either sex, though men as a rule prefer building 



the heavier baskets ■ — ■ market-baskets, clothes, 
hampers and those done in the oak splints. It 
is also interesting and lucrative employment for 
invalids and those who are not able to get about 
with ease, as it requires merely the use of the 
hands and a true eye. The little art baskets are 
not much seen on the other side of the water 
though willow and the heavier baskets are turned 
out in quantities. 

In our own country the basket business is grow- 
ing rapidly. One large factory in Pennsylvania 
turns out six carloads of useful baskets a day. 
That is where the money is made — in turning out 
all kinds of baskets. The art baskets are good 
sellers too, especially at the Christmas and Easter 
seasons, but the market and other carrying baskets 
are in demand all of the time. Of course if made 
entirely of reed they bring very good prices, but 
the willow and straw baskets are very profitable 
owing to the fact that they cost less, and while the 
selling price is not so large they are sold in large 
quantities. 

The only way to make money in basketry is to 
go into business. If you live near a large, or even 
a small shop, the chances are that they will buy 
your work, giving you perhaps a fair sum, or they 
may furnish the material and merely pay you for 
your time; but all business ideas of your own are 
discouraged. Competition is the life of trade, how- 
ever, and if one can really turn out good work 
there is no question about selling it. Bear in mind 
the statement made before on this page, that if 
one hires employees higher prices must be asked 
for the baskets. The progressive basket-maker 
must be always on the outlook for new ideas and 
suggestions, and will finally be able at a glance 
to criticise a basket as to material, shape, and 
weaving. Do not forget to advertise, and this may 
be done in many ways. A small gift to an out-of- 
town friend has been known to bring many orders. 
Write to florists and dealers and ask to submit 
samples. Send your best work. Send, perhaps, 
a small basket and tell in how many sizes and 
colors it may be made. The following is the 
description of an ordinary sample advertising 
market-baskets: 

Five pieces of green willow, each 7 inches long, 
are cut and laid horizontally about an inch apart. 
With finer willow a base is woven like No. 11 on 
page 13. Thirty-two side spokes of willow are in- 
serted, and a row of willow in triple twist is put 
in first, then three rows in under and over weave are 
put in. Then two rows of natural-colored straw 
braid, next a row of the straw in a deeper yellow 
color, and then one row of ash splint y 2 inch 
wide, dyed red, another row of yellow straw, two 
rows of natural straw — all of this in the under and 
over weave. — and finally a row of willow in triple 
twist. Edge as described on page 15 and handle like 
the Shallow Flower Basket described on page 37. 
This is the fac-simile of one of a large number of 
baskets used to serve a picnic luncheon. 



48 




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\ 



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Wf)t iWokrn $rts;ctlla 

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It is filled from cover to cover each month with designs, in- 
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